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Whip FAQ
Updated: 4th January 2007
This page is designed to help you in choosing your
first whip, whether you buy it from me or from someone else. It also
contains information about ordering from this site. It is updated from
the previous Whip FAQ from the Whip Store.
Choosing a Whip
Buying a whip from English Whips
Don't see answers to your questions? Email me: mailroom@whipstore.com
Choosing
a Whip
What
sort of person would buy a whip?
Someone
like you? I've seen whips go
to theatre companies, circus people, kids'
entertainers, professional whip masters and
mistresses, dog sleigh
teams, ordinary enthusiasts from all walks of life;
and SM players.
They
have been used all around the world - from
television studios in London to theatre stages
around the country, arena rock concerts and operatic
productions; in the Scottish Highlands, on remote
farms on the Isle of Skye and in the bush on African
safari - as well as down the
local park or club - and by people of all ages, from
teenage to well past retirement, in Britain,
Belgium, Canada, Denmark, France, Eire, Germany, Holland,
Hong Kong, Japan, Portugal, Slovenia, Sweden, South Africa,
and the United States.
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What
are the different types of whips that people use?
See
whip
types for a discussion about the different
kinds of whips that are typically used by whip
crackers.
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What
sort of whip do you recommend for a novice?
If you want a
whip for general whip cracking from a hobby,
performance or sport point of view; and you have
access to an outdoor practice space, most people
choose a bull
whip or stock
whip.
If
you're on a budget, a cowhide stock or yard whip will
offer you better performance and durability at the
lower end of the price range than a cheap bullwhip
(I don't sell cheap bullwhips for exactly this
reason). At the upper end of the price range,
it's a matter of preference as to which type of
whip you prefer - most people in Britain go for
bullwhips.
If you don't
have much space, or will be using the whip
mainly indoors, then the length and type of whip are dictated by the space you have available
and the use to which the whip will be put. Snake
and signal whips lack the solid handles of the
other types, so need less room - signals being the
most compact. Both types are favourites for indoor
target work. Snake
whips - 3 and 4 footers - are my best sellers
for indoor use. Signal
whips are very precise and elegant, but the
braided-in cracker can't easily be changed so you
have to be a little bit more careful about how
they are used. If you prefer the solid handle of
the bullwhip, a mini-bull
may be just the ticket. A 4 foot bullwhip is a lovely whip
if you have the head room to get the best from it.
There's
a lot of truth in the idea that the better a whip
is, the easier it is to control - and
therefore the better for learning with. Cheap stock whips are good for learning the basics, especially
if you are unsure how far you wish to take your
whip cracking, because they are easy to crack and
will give long service with minimal maintenance.
But they don't have such refined handling as
more expensive whips, and tend to lose their
precision more quickly. Consequently, if you
already know that you've been bitten by the whip
cracking bug, you will probably be happier saving
up your pennies in order to buy a more expensive whip; rather than
buy a cheap whip now only to upgrade a few weeks,
or months, down the line.
Stock whips
and bull whips are arguably better for target work,
with bullwhips having a more 'flowing' action that a lot of people
prefer, and most people in Britain seem to prefer the aesthetic of the
braided handle leading smoothly into the flexible
thong. Stock whips lend themselves to rapid changes
of direction, and this make 5 and 4 foot stock
whips great for fast routines. A 6 foot stock whip
has a similar length to 8 foot bullwhip, but the
long handle makes it easier to learn with so, if
you really want a long whip for your first whip (I
don't recommend it), go for one of these rather
than an 8 foot bullwhip.
If
your interest lies in SM whip cracking, you want a
whip that will be precise and predictable. For your
first whip, precise targeting is everything - you
don't need a whip designed for fluid multiple
cracking, you need a whip that will go exactly where
it's told. 3 snake whips are
my best sellers as first whips for this sort of use: relatively
quick to master and usable in most indoor spaces
without worrying about hitting someone with your
back-swing. A 4 foot signal whip is even more
compact, and very satisfying to master.
How
are whips measured?
Most
people measure whips as follows:
A
typical 5 foot stock whip will be about twice the
length of a 5 foot signal whip, measured tip to
tail.
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How
long should my first whip be?
If you've got the space, a rule of
thumb that seems to work is that a six foot bull
whip is a good length for most adults' first
whip.
If
you're not very tall, or are looking to focus on difficult multiple cracking routines,
a 5 foot bullwhip may be more suitable - as a
general rule, the shorter the whip, the faster the
action; so fast routines suit short whips. The
downside of this is that learning technical
routines with shorter whips can feel pretty
hectic. They are also less
visually impressive for performing tricks and
target cutting, and less well suited to wraps;
whereas a six footer is more of an all-rounder and
has a more flowing action that I personally find
very pleasing. If I had to have just one bullwhip,
it would be a six footer.
Some American whip vendors
will argue for longer (more expensive) whips but
I've taught an awful lot of people to crack whips
and I've found that, when you're learning, the whip gets dragged
around on the ground, stood on etc. Longer whips in
the hands of novices suffer more wear and tear at
the point, get damaged more often, and can hamper
learning. Long
whips also need a great deal of space, and you
will enjoy one most when you already have some
skill as a whip cracker.
If
you prefer stock
whips, a 5
footer offers similar handling to a 6 foot bullwhip but is
slightly longer overall; and therefore marginally
better for learning body wrapping. A 6
foot stock whip is better still, from that point of
view, with a slow and elegant action
once mastered. It is a bit slow for technical
multiple cracking and slower to master overall but,
if you really want a long whip for your
first whip, go for one of these rather than an 8 or
10 foot bullwhip. A 4
foot stock/yard whip is better for faster
routines, and many people are happy to learn with
these.
If you
are going to be working mainly inside, space is the
critical factor, including ceiling height. Short snake whips
are my best sellers for indoor work. Signal
whips are the best if space is the main
determinant of choice. Yard whips
have the same sort of range as a six foot
bullwhip, but the keeper connection between handle
and thong mean that that they can be used for target
work in more constricted spaces.
As a
general rule, it is easier to judge distance with a
short whip - an important consideration for SM whip
crackers - but for 'sport' whip cracking, a longer
whip will be more satisfying.
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What
should it be made of?
I make my kangaroo
hide whips on the assumption that they are going to
get regular use and that, this being Britain, that use
won't always be in ideal conditions. To reduce the
risk of strands snapping through abrasion and
accident, I import the very best tannage available,
in slightly thicker substance than some other whip makers;
and ensure that the overlay is as smooth as possible.
The points of my whips are very tightly plaited for
maximum longevity- a loose point will eventually
result in snapped strands. With a bit of common
sense care, most beginners will find that a good kangaroo
hide whip will take them from absolute novice
through to skilled whip handler, without having to
'upgrade' or replace it. Similarly, performers
looking to for whips for multiple cracking routines
and precise target work will be better off in the
long run with a well-made roo hide whip.
On the
other hand, cowhide
whips are cheaper and physically tougher than roo,
and the best choice if you think the whip is going
to be used in poor conditions, or won't
be properly maintained, or will suffer lots of
abuse. But, for various reasons, they tend to loose their
liveliness more quickly than roo hide whips made
with the same skill. This means that their handling
characteristics become less precise over time,
making technical work more difficult. This does
happen to roo hide whips as well but, if they are
well made, much more slowly; so owners of cowhide
whips tend to 'upgrade' at some point.
The
cowhide whips that I sell are
low plait whips designed for a high degree of
durability with a smooth, easy cracking action when
new. They are great for the self-teaching beginner
who doesn't want to invest large amount so money,
for kids, or performers who need tough, reliable
whips that require the minimum of maintenance.
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How
many strands should it have in the braid?
It
doesn't really matter. I've seen nice looking 12 and
16 plait overlays on bellies that make you wonder
why their makers bothered, and 4, 6 and 8 plait whips
that are streets ahead of many higher plait ones. So
the number of strands in the overlay is not that
important, except as some measure of toughness:
-
High plait (over
16 strand) thongs
lack durability. Anything up to 16 plait will
give good service to the average enthusiast if
properly cared for. Whips with more than 16 strands in
the braid are made as collector's items rather
than for regular use.
-
The
tip - or point - of a whip gets the most wear. A 4
plait tip on a whip is more durable than a 6 or
8 plait one. All other things being equal, there
is little difference in the durability of the tip of
an 8, 12, or 16 plait whip, because all of those
whips will have terminate in an 8 or
6 plait tip. I usually prefer 8 plait points,
but do make whips with 6 plait ones.
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In
two whips made with the same skill, the higher
plait one will tend to have a smoother action. However,
this assumes that there is also some difference
between the bellies of each whip; otherwise the
difference is largely aesthetic. In any case,
the difference between strand counts will be marginal in
mid-length and long whips; to the point that
many people would be unable to tell the
difference without inspecting the plaiting.
-
Individual
strands need to stretch less as the thong of a
high plait whip bends, compared to the strands
of a low plait one; so, in theory, the whip
retains it's liveliness longer. It should also
be more efficient, because the narrower lace
allows for better compression of the core, which
means that it should be easier to crack when new
and should feel more precise when you throw it.
On the other hand, the wide strands in the upper
thong of a mid (i.e. 8) plait whip, compared to
those in a 16 plait one, are stronger and more
stretch resistant in the first place. All other
things being equal, 8 plait whips seem to fare
better, when used on a more or less daily basis,
than 16 plait ones.
-
Whips with
very high strand counts (more than 16) in the handpart are
beautiful items, but are to be avoided except as
collector's items. If they are used regularly,
the twisting in your grip, and the sweat and
oils from your skin, will stretch very
narrow strands so that the braid loosens and
slips. If the whip is to be used a great deal,
even a 16 plait hand part can lack durability if
it's plaited with very thin hide.
As you can see, there
are pro's and cons. As long as
you practice
common sense care, any whip between 4 and 16
strands should be fine for most people as long as
it's well made. If you will be using the whip a very
great deal (i.e. on a more or less daily basis for
extended periods) then, in most cases, I would
suggest an 8 or 12 plait whip to be a good bet. But,
for most enthusiasts, a 16 plait whip is hard to beat
for combining beauty and function.
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What
Does a Well Made Whip Look Like?
Even allowing for the
fact that it's almost impossible to judge the
quality of any item from photos on a website, many people don't
realise that the appearance of a whip gives almost
no clue as to how that whip handles or will change
over time: the only way to
judge a whip's quality is to use it. This is why I
offer a 14 day no-quibble returns policy. If you
don't like the whip when you receive it, let me know
and return it in 'as new' condition and I'll make
you another to your taste or give you a refund (see
my terms and conditions).
The most important
parts of a quality whip are out of sight: the belly
and core. You can get nice looking whips built on
everything from paper cores at one end of the
spectrum, to plaited roo hide ones at the other. If
the whip maker or vendor doesn't give you
information about the innards of the whip then leave
well alone, no matter how good it looks!
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What
about the core and belly?
This the crux. These
are the most important parts of the whip - not the
overlay - but you can't see them. I once had a 16
plait bullwhip sent to me for repair. Turned out it had a rope core! If a vendor
won't tell you how a whip is made, don't buy it.
A poor
core means a poor whip in every case. Most decent
bullwhips have rolled cowhide, sometimes roo hide,
cores. Some have steel cables: I
don't like the handling of the ones I've tried, but
that's a matter of personal taste. I
use tightly plaited roo hide cores. These are more durable than rolled
core
because the bending of the core is, in part,
achieved through movement of the strands so that the
fibres in the leather suffer less stress over time,
plus, each strand in the braid lends it's strength
to the others.
Short whips are
usually loaded with lead shot. This is to add mass into the thong, so that
the whip is easier to crack. Some longer whips are
as well, but the trend these days is to make them
naturally falling.
What happens after
the core, is down to the whip maker, their
materials, and their intentions about the quality
and look of the end product. Roo hide needs more
layers building up, in order to achieve enough mass
to crack the whip easily, than cow hide. All
bullwhips need plenty of
reinforcement if
they are to maintain their liveliness over time - cheaper ones
may lack this.
My kangaroo bullwhips
typically have five or six layers in the thong. Some
very cheap bull and stock whips are simply a rolled core
and a 4 plait overlay. Although that design is very
basic, I've seen cowhide whips like this get several
years of regular use while I've seen 12 and 16 plait
roo whips become like wet spaghetti with much less wear. The difference? The care and skill with which they were put
together.
So don't get hung up
on people telling you it must be made in this or
that way: good whip makers make good whips, and each
one has their own way of doing things. Between
2 whips of the same quality of design, made with the
same degree of skill and quality of materials, it
really comes down to a matter of intended use, taste
and budget: a good whip should almost feel as if it
is doing the work for you when new, regardless of
price.
Whenever possible,
buy from a whip maker and not a vendor. That way,
you know that the person selling the whip knows
exactly what is going on under the overlay and is
best placed to explain the differences between the
whips they offer.
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I
want an Indiana Jones type whip
Some
people say 'Indiana Jones style whip' when they mean
'bull whip'. In which case, you've come to the right
place!
If,
however, you mean a screen accurate replica of the
whips used on the Indiana Jones movies,
that's a slightly different matter. Those whips were
made by American whip maker, David Morgan, in a
traditional American style, and feature a short
handle (an 8 inch steel nail). Their lengths varied
from 6 foot to 16, to suit the needs of particular
scenes. If it's your first whip, see How
long should my first whip be?
before deciding on length.
Although,
of course, you can use any whip for target work,
most UK performers and hobbyists choose whips with
longer handles. I also find that these help with
cracking the whip because they provide leverage; and
because they require less weight adding in order to
balance the handle and thong. This means that they
are less tiring when used for long periods. Having
had CFS/ME for a number of years, ease of use over a
sustained period is a key criteria in the design of
my whips; and I find the typical 'Indy whip' too
heavy for comfortable use; especially for technical
work. Consequently, I much prefer longer handled
whips: the standard handle length on my bullwhips is
12" / 30cm.
I don't copy other
people's designs but, after receiving a lot of
requests, I have come up with the Dr
Jones Variation on my usual bullwhip design.
This is a whip with a slightly shorter handle than
usual, finished with the same knots as an Indy whip;
with a single diamond pattern running the length of
the handle and a plaited wrist loop. It's not a
screen-accurate replica, and is slightly lighter
than the originals, but it certainly is Indy-esque;
and is designed for prolonged technical cracking.
If the
most important thing, for you, is to get the closest
match to the whips used in the movies, then visit www.davidmorgan.com.
The design of his whips has changed very little
since the first 'Raiders' movie and, although a
number of people now make copies, his are still 'the
real McCoy' in the eyes of movie fans.
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I
want a whip for self defence.
If you
intend to keep it handy for use as a weapon, you're
breaking the law. You can have a whip for
recreational use and performance but, if you carry
it with the expectation of hitting someone with it
(without their consent!), it becomes an offensive
weapon and you stand to be arrested. Reputable
British whip vendors won't sell whips for use as
weapons.
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Do
I really need safety goggles?
Eyes are
tricky things to replace. Even on it's return
journey, when most if it's energy is expended, the
end of the whip can be traveling fast enough to
blind you. That applies to short whips as much as it
does to long ones. Consider ear plugs, too, if
you're working indoors.
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Buying
a Whip From English Whips
Can
I try before I buy?
I don't
trade at many events these days - most of my time is
taken up with filling customer orders, so I have
little time spare to work on building up a stock
base.
It goes without
saying that I will replace the whip with another one
if you're not happy with it when you receive it. Let
me know within 2 weeks of receiving it, and before
you've applied any kind of leather dressing (my
whips don't need dressing when you receive them)! As
long as I get it back in 'as new' condition (i.e.
not broken in), I'll supply you with another or
refund your money. I also offer a 12 month
guarantee on every whip I make (there are one or
two exceptions, see my terms
and conditions for my full returns policy).
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How
do I Place an order?
Email or
call me. If I'm making a whip for you, rather than
supplying from stock, I ask for a 50% deposit. There
are numerous ways of paying - see my
ordering
page for details.
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What
are the shipping fees?
The cost
of post and packing for British customers is free
on orders over £50.00.
Below £50.00, the
P&P is as follows:
| £0.01
- £9.99 |
£1.00 |
| £10.00
- £24.99 |
£1.50 |
| £25.00
- £34.99 |
£2.50 |
| £35.00
- £49.99 |
£3.50 |
For
security, most things are sent via Royal Mail Recorded
or Special Delivery within the UK, or an insured
service to overseas destinations. I reserve the right to refuse to
supply to some countries or for certain purposes.
In an
effort to reduce the carbon output associated with
my business, overseas shipping on all orders over
£50.00 will be free if you choose surface
mail. Surface mail typically adds about three
weeks to delivery times.
Overseas
customers requiring air mail will be charged
£15.00 shipping on all orders over £50.00; and
postage as above on orders below £50.00
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What
Currencies do You Accept?
If you
order using the payment buttons on the website,
the transaction will be in Pounds Sterling but you
will be shown the approximate price in your local
currency prior to confirming. Your local currency
will be converted to it's equivalent amount in
pounds.
In
addition to pounds sterling, am
happy to send secure online invoices via Paypal
for payment in :
- Canadian Dollar
- Euro
- U.S. Dollar
- Yen
- Australian
Dollar
- New Zealand
Dollar
- Swiss Franc
- Hong Kong Dollar
- Singapore Dollar
- Swedish Krona
- Danish Krone
- Polish Zloty
- Norwegian Krone
- Hungarian Forint
- Czech Koruna
To make ordering as
easy as possible, I can usually send the payment
request in your local language.
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Do
You offer Credit Facilities?
No but you can pay
by credit card, using the payment buttons on the
site, or you can pay in installments using the Paypal Payment Plan. This suits me very
well, because it means I have a regular sum coming
in, and it helps to make it possible for you to own
a high quality whip that maybe, otherwise, would
have been out of reach. It also means that the whip
you receive will be made especially for you. Please
email the mailroom@whipstore.com
for more info.
Given that whips
can take a long time to make, I understand that
you may not wish to pay up front then wait a
couple of months for the whip to be made. I am
happy to receive a 50% refundable deposit to
confirm your order, with the balance becoming due
when the whip is finished.
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How
quickly will my whip be delivered?
If it's
in stock, it will usually despatch within a week of your payment
clearing.
If it's
being made for you, this typically takes around 10-12
weeks - sometimes more, sometimes less. The time of year,
volume of work I have
in, and whether or not I have anything suitable
already in construction, will all impact upon delivery times.
Australian
whips typically around 8 weeks. The exact time
varies with the maker, how busy they are, and how
quickly the whip passes through Customs. I will do
my best to keep you informed of any delays.
If
you need your whip by a certain date, I strongly
recommend against ordering without first checking
the amount of time it will take to make your whip! Email
me: mailroom@whipstore.com
or call 020 8647 6314 during business hours.
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